Standing Snowman Basket Pattern

Materials:

#2 round reed
#3 round reed
3/16” flat oval
Drilled wooden ball head (pre-painted in either kit)
2 twigs
Rusty tin Bucket and snowballs
Rusty tin birdhouse
Rusty star
3 buttons
Scarf
Greenery
Glue & White Spray Paint (not included in either kit)

Construction:
Cut 17 pieces of # 3 round reed at 11” long. Soak spokes and insert 16 pieces into the holes. Using a piece of soaked #2 round reed, crimp in half; twine for 4 rows. Start this in the back. Try and keep the shape to a nice, round flare. Do not weave tight. End off.

Insert the remaining #3 round reed spoke in the back. It will join with another spoke. Taper 3” of the starting end of the 3/16” flat oval. Insert the tapered end between the 16^th and 17^th spokes. Weave continuously for 17 or 18 rows. Do not weave tight, weave so that the body will grow and flare out. Do all the overlapping in the back. Taper the ending row to level the basket.

Finish off the body by doing a simple border: behind one and over for 2 rows. Trim ends to ¾”.

Put a baggie over the head and tape it together. Spray the basket body with white spray paint. Let dry. Find 2 twigs. Insert each twig arm into the sides of the body coming all the way through and sticking out a little where the other twig comes in, overlapping them inside. (Otherwise the twigs will fall down.) I inserted the twigs between the twining and 3/16” flat oval. Put a little glue to hold them in place.

Wrap the felt scarf around the neck and tie. Glue on the rustic star. Glue 3 buttons on his front. Glue on the carrot nose. Glue the black hat on, glue greenery on the brim. Glue the 5 snowballs in the bucket. Hang the bucket and the birdhouse on the twig arms. You may need to use jute twine or floss to hang the birdhouse. Enjoy!

Napkin Basket Pattern

Dimensions: 3 1/2" x 6 1/2" x 6" tall

Materials:

#2 round reed
¼" dyed reed
3/8" flat reed-natural
½" flat reed-natural and dyed

Preparation:

Cut 3 pieces of ½" flat at 26" long. Cut 6 pieces of ½" flat natural at 24" long.
Mark the centers on all these pieces on the rough side. Soak these pieces with a long piece of #2 round reed.

Construction:

Lay out the 3 pieces of ½" flat horizontally spacing about ½" between each piece. Make sure the rough sides are facing up with all these spokes. Weave the 6 pieces of ½" natural into these 3 pieces. Start to the left of the center mark and put 3 pieces on each side of the center.

Adjust base to 3" x 6" long. Mark the corners with a pencil mark and clothespin the 4 corners.

Take a long piece of soaked #2 round reed and crimp this piece in the middle. Slide this on one of the spokes on the long side and begin twining around the base of the basket. Take the clothespins off as you get to them and then put them back on after twining on these spokes. Continue for 2 rows and tuck the ends into the previous rows. Trim to 2" long.

Soak the base and upset the spokes by gently bending them over at the twining.

Begin weaving the sides.

Rows 1-4: ½" flat natural
5: ¼" flat dyed
6: ½" flat dyed
7: ¼" flat dyed
8: ½" flat dyed
9: ¼" flat dyed
10-11: ½" flat

Matchstick Border:

Soak the basket upside down for about 5 minutes to get the spokes very pliable.

Take a 24" piece of 3/8" (or ½") flat and place on the inside of the basket. This will now be your rim row and this will go horizontally around your basket. Take any spoke and bring this around the 3/8" piece to the right and pull back to the outside of the basket. Continue with the next spoke on the right wrapping this piece around the 3/8" to the right and then to the outside. When you get back to where you started, over lap the 3/8" piece for a few spokes to secure this row. Soak the top of the basket again.

Now take any spoke and go over 2 spokes and insert into the rim row of the top. The first insert will determine how large the loop will be. You can cut the end of this spoke on an angle and this will keep the spoke in by securing the braid. Continue with the next spoke to the right again crossing over 2 spokes and inserting into the top rim row. Continue all around the basket. Adjust the loops on the basket so they are all even.

Finishing:

Stain your basket with you favorite color of stain. I used Weaver’s Stain Golden Oak here. (available from your favorite Basket Supplier.) Go right over the dyed pieces.

Variations:

Weave this basket in any of your favorite colors. Have fun weaving this for any of the seasons. Have fun playing with color combinations. Add a ceramic or leather tie on also available from your favorite Supplier. This makes a great hostess gift for any occasion or makes a wonderful Teacher gift which is great for Napkins, paper, or also mail or stationary.

Light Holder Basket Pattern

Finished Dimensions: 3 1/2" diameter x 10" High with lamp & shade

Supplies:

1 Electric Candle with Shade 3/8 flat, dyed, spokes
1/4 flat, weavers #2 round reed
3.00 mm cane #2 round reed, dyed, filler
2" wooden base with slits

Spokes:

Cut 12 spokes from 3/8 flat, dyed, at 10". Insert spokes, rough side up, evenly around the 2" wooden base. After spokes or inserted or before, glue your electric candle to the wooden base. Hot glue may be used or I used a product called Jewel-It, for faster set-up.

Base:

With #2 round reed, natural, chase weave 10 rows or until you have 5 overs on each spoke. Upset spokes.

Sides: (All rows are start and stop)

5 rows 1/4 flat, natural See Note**
1 row 3/8 flat, dyed
1 row 1/4 flat, natural
1 row 3/8 flat, dyed
1 row 1/4 flat, natural
1 row 3/8 flat, dyed
3 rows 1/4 flat natural
1 row 3/16 flat, rim row.

Cut and tuck every other spoke.

Rim:

Rim with 3/8 flat, fill with #2 round reed dyed to match spokes and lash the basket using 3.00mm cane.

** After weaving 3 rows, place the wire for the candle between the two spokes at the back of the basket, weave the next row thus wedging the wire in between two rows of weaving.

Embellishments:

Buttons or wooden items to match your lamp shade may be glued or tied onto the basket after it has been stained. It will be okay when staining the basket if some of the stain gets onto the electric candlestick, just wipe it off immediately, the same goes for the cord. Do not plug it in until everything is totally dry. I would recommend a spray stain, do not immerse the basket in the stain, it will be too much moisture for the electric lamp. Use any variety of lampshade and dye reed to match.

Holiday Basket Pattern

Dimensions: 8"L x 5½""W x 4 ¼"H (not including the handle)

Materials:

5/8" Flat – spokes
1/2" Flat – inner & outer rims
3/8" Flat – weavers and filler spokes
Seagrass – rim filler
#2 Round Reed – twining
Jingle Bells Beaded Fringe
1/ 4" Flat dyed (I used cherry & forest green)
Tacky Glue – available at craft shops
Double Wire "SL" handle – red or green wood grip
1.0 mm red or bottle green waxed cotton cord – lashing (approx. 10 ft)

Preparation:

Cut 5 spokes from 5/8" Flat each 20" long, and 7 spokes from 5/8" Flat each 18" long. Also cut 4 filler spokes from 3/8" Flat each 14" long. Soak.

Construction:

Layout the 5 long spokes horizontally alternating with the 4 filler spokes. Weave in 1 center spoke vertically starting over the horizontal spoke and under the filler spokes. Weave in 3 more spokes on each side of this center spoke. Adjust base to measure 6 ½" x 4 ½". Fold the filler spokes to the inside of the base and tuck under the 3rd spoke of base weaving. Trim off any excess. Repeat on the other end. Twine twice around the base with #2 Round Reed. Upset the spokes.

Weave 1 row 3/8"Flat start and stop, 1 row 1/4" Flat green, 1 row 1/4"Flat red, and 7 more rows of 3/8"Flat.

Pack well. Cut and tuck spokes in the usual manner. Use "Tacky Glue" to glue the ribbon part of the beaded fringe on to the rim row. Rim with 1/2" Flat inside and outside, seagrass between rims, and double lash with 1.0mm red or bottle green waxed cotton cord.

To attach the handle: Create a space under the rim on each side of the middle spoke and gently spread the double wires. Insert the wire from the outside of the basket inward, and bend the wire up over the rim and back down to the outside.

NOTE: Beaded fringe can be glued to any style basket.

Baking Basket Pattern

Large Version Base: 15”wide x 26”long Materials needed: 5/8” flat spokes Cut 13 spokes 40" x 5/8” flat *Cut 12 filler spokes 32" x 5/8" Cut 18 spokes 29" x 5/8” flat 1/2" flat weavers 15” x 7 1/2” D handle 5/8” flat/oval inner and outer rims 1/4” flat/oval lashing	Smaller Version Base: 15" wide x 18" long Materials needed: 5/8” flat spokes Cut 13 spokes 32" x 5/8” flat *Cut 12 filler spokes 24" x 5/8" flat Cut 12 spokes 29" x 5/8 flat 1/2" flat weavers 15” x 7 1/2” D handle 5/8” flat/oval inner and outer rims 1/4” flat/oval lashing
*Note - You may need to substitute 1/2" filler spokes for part of the 5/8" width ones to get the bottom to fit the handle best.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Laying out the Bottom:

Put handle vertical in front of you, lay stakes horizontal across handle right tight to each other, starting with 40" Over, 32" Under, 40" Over, 32" Under, and so on... ending with 40" over until all 25 stakes are in.

Now weave the 18 - 29" long stakes 9 on each side of the handle starting with over, under and so on and ending with the last stake on each side over. As you place these stake, leave about 5/8" between each stake. When all 18 stakes are in, measure the bottom, it should be 26" long. Now pin corners and make any adjustments on the stakes so all weaving spaces are even. This makes for a beautiful solid (strong) bottom.

Spray again to keep wet... and upset the stakes all the way around.

Weaving the Sides:

Remember - Do not weave the short stakes (32" fillers) leave them sticking out until the sides are woven. Weave sides in start-stop weave, over-lapping by 4 stakes each row, using 1/2" flat reed. When you have woven 4 rows of 1/2" flat, weave in top row of 1/2" flat. Cut and tuck.

At this point you can tuck in the Fillers...they should still sticking out. Take in sets of 2 and cross ( get them very wet first ) cut to tuck under the 2nd or 4th row of weaving. This creates the "shoes". See picture.

Rimming the Basket:

Rim your basket using 5/8" flat/oval for both the inside and outside rims. If you want to use a rim filler, use #6 round reed, it provides the cleanest look. Lash with 1/4" flat/oval reed, making an "x" over the handle as you pass it (see diagram)

General Use Basket Pattern

Materials:

12” x 19” D handle - sanded well
12" x 3/4" oak hoop - inner rim
1" flat reed - spokes
3/4" flat reed - outside rim
3/8” flat/flat reed - weavers
3/16” flat/flat reed - weavers
3/16" flat/oval reed - lashing
#3 round reed - twine base
#4 round reed - whaling on base and first row
#3 seagrass - rim filler

Cut:

13- 40” x 1” flat spokes

Mark all spokes at the center on the rough side. Mark the center of the handle and 3" on either side of center.

Lay out six 40” spokes and mark them 3" on both sides of center on rough side. Place these in a suburst pattern on top of the center mark on the inside of the handle. The spokes should be spread out equally, and the centers all on top of each other, the 3" marks forming a circle.

Using the 3" marks as a guide, twining your first row on top of them, twine 3 rows using #3 round reed.

Over-under weave 7 rows of 3/16" flat reed. The base should still be flat, and use a 6 spoke overlap to end each row.

Twine 2 more rows of #3 round reed.

Place a new spoke in between two existing spokes. Place a 3/16" flat weaver under the existing spoke to the left, weave over the new spoke, and under the next existing spoke. Place another new spoke in the open space, and weave over it, and under the existing spoke. Follow this pattern around the base until you reach the halfway point and run out of spokes. Continue to weave, catching in the other sides of hte new spokes. Weave two additional rows after this of 3/16" flat, making a total of 3 rows completed with 6 spoke overlap.

Using #4 round reed, weave one row of 3 rod whaling. Step up and weave a row of reverse 3 rod whaling, creating an arrow. This should bring you to the edge of the handle. Upsett spokes.

Sides:

Row 1: Again using #4 round reed, weave one row of 4 rod whaling, attempt to hold the sides straight up as you go.

Rows 2-4: Weave 3 rows using 3/8" flat reed. The first row should fall on the outside of the handle, and the sides should be at a 90 degree angle from the base. This basket does not flare.

Row 5: Beginning under the 3rd spoke to the right of the handle, weave 3/16" flat reed under 2/over 2 twill pattern for one row, ending in a 4 spoke overlap.

Row 6: Beginning under the 4th spoke to the right of the handle, weave 3/16" flat reed under 2/over 2 twill pattern for one row, ending in a 4 spoke overlap.

Row 7: Beginning under the 5th spoke to the right of the handle, weave 3/16" flat reed under 2/over 2 twill pattern for one row, ending in a 4 spoke overlap.

Row 8: Beginning under the 6th spoke to the right of the handle, weave 3/16" flat reed under 2/over 2 twill pattern for one row, ending in a 4 spoke overlap.

Row 9: Beginning under the 7th spoke to the right of the handle, weave 3/16" flat reed under 2/over 2 twill pattern for one row, ending in a 4 spoke overlap.

Row 10, 11, 12, 13: Repeat rows 8, 7, 6, 5 respectively using the 3/16" flat reed. This should create an arrow of twill. Weaving will tend to be loose on this part, but you can tighten it up if you like after a few rows by working the "extra" around to the overlaps and trimming.

Row 14: Weave a row of 3/8" flat reed, going to the outside of the handle.

Rows 15-29: Weave rows of 3/8" flat reed. After every row, slip the 12" x 3/4" oak hoop to the inside of the basket. The rows should fit around the hoop snugly as this will be your inside rim.

Row 30: Weave one more row of 3/8" flat reed. This is your last row and the oak hoop must fit inside it. Allow a minimal amount of room so that once you cut and tuck the rim will still fit on the inside. Pack your weaving, making sure there are no spaces. Be careful of packing around the 3/16" weavers, as they bend and fold easily. This is the time to take out any looseness in rows 5-13.

Cut and tuck.

Use 3/4" flat reed as your outer rim, and a 12" x 3/4" oak hoop as your inner rim. #3 seagrass is the rim filler, and lashing is 3/16" flat/oval reed. Be sure to lash x's over the handles.

*3 rod whaling - begin 3 pieces of round reed behind 3 adjacent spokes. Bring the one on the far left side in front of the next two spokes (weaving over the other 2 round reeds), behind the 3rd, and out in front again. Then take the one that is now on the far left and bring it in front 2, behind 1 and out. Then take the next one on the furthest left and bring it in front 2, behind 1, and out. Continue doing this until your 3 weavers are behind the 3 spokes just before the ones you started under. Then, instead of taking the one on the far left, use the one of the three that is furthest to the right, and have it go over 2, behind one, and out. Then use the one in the middle to go in front 2, behind 1 and out. Then use the last one to do the same. This completes one row of 3 rod whaling.

*reverse 3 rod whaling - begin 3 pieces of round reed behind 3 adjacent spokes. This weave is the same as the 3 rod whaling, with the only change being that as you weave in front of the two spokes, you travel under the 2 sticking out round reeds instead of over them. This will create an arrow pattern when the two types are used together. To end, you come around to right before where you began, and use the one on the right to go over the two spokes, and under the row of whaling to go under the third spoke. The middle weaver goes over two spokes, and under the whaling to end under the third spoke. The last weaver also goes over two spokes, and ends under the whaling behind the third spoke. Trim the ends flush.

*4 rod whaling - same as 3 rod whaling, except you are using 4 pieces instead of 3. Begin on 4 adjacent spokes, and pattern is over 3 spokes, behind one, and out.

Jelly Caddy Basket Pattern

1/2 Pint Size

Materials:

• 1/2" Flat reed (spokes)
• 1/4" Flat (weavers, both plain and color; lashing)
• 3" x 3" Handle(Small Jelly)
• #2 Round reed (twining)
• Seagrass (rim)

Base:

5 1/4" x 2 1/2"

Cut:

Three 16 1/2" spokes out of 1/2" Flat reed
Seven 14" spokes out of 1/2" Flat reed

Mark centers on rough side. Lay out three 16 1/2" spokes horizontally. Weave 14" center spoke vertically; add remaining spokes, three on each side. True base to 5 1/4" x 2 1/2".

Twine twice around base with #2 Round reed. Upset spokes and weave six rows of 1/4" Flat reed. Twine three more rows of #2 Round reed using colored reed if desired. Weave three more rows of 1/4" Flat reed. Cut and tuck to the twining. It is okay that you are only tucking under one row of 1/4" Flat reed.

Rim:

Form an inside and outside rim of 1/2" Flat reed. Place copper eyes centered above the long side of the basket. Lay sea grass on top of wire and between walls of rim.

Lash rim with 1/4" Flat reed. "X" the handles.

Turn basket bottom side up. Cut small pieces of 1/4" Flat reed to form a lattice across the bottom. Tuck pieces diagonally going between the 1/2" spokes at the intersections so that the lattice work does not weave into the inside of the basket.

Attach wire bale handle with pliers.

1 Pint Size

Materials:

• 1/2" Flat reed (spokes)
• 1/4" Flat reed (weavers, both plain and color; lashing)
• 5/8" Flat dyed reed (weaver)
• 3 3/4" x 5" Handle(Large Jelly)
• #2 Round reed (twining)
• Seagrass (rim)

Base:

6 1/2" x 3"

Cut:

Four 19 1/2" spokes out of 1/2" Flat reed
Seven 16" spokes out of 1/2" Flat

reed

Mark centers of all spokes on the rough side. Lay out four 19 1/2" spokes horizontally. Weave 16" spoke over centers of horizontal spokes. Add remaining six spokes, three on each side. True base to 6 1/2" x 3". Twine around once with #2 Round reed. Upset stakes. Weave up sides as follows:

Rows 1-4:

1/4" Flat plain

Row 5:

1/4" Flat dyed

Row 6:

5/8" Flat dyed

Row 7:

1/4" Flat dyed

Rows 8-13:

1/4" Flat plain

Rim:

Cut and tuck. Form and inside and outside rim of 1/2" Flat reed. Place copper eyes centered above the long side of the basket. Lay seagrass on top of wire and between walls of rim. Lash rim with 1

/4" Flat reed. "X" the handles.

Finish as in 1/2 pint Jelly Caddy.

Cracker Basket Pattern

Materials:

• 1/2" Flat (spokes and rims)
• 1/4" Flat (weavers)
• #2 Round reed (twining, variation)
• #1 or #2 seagrass (twining and rim, variation)
• 1/4" Flat/Oval (lashing and weavers, variation)
• 1/2" Flat/Oval (outer rim, variation)

Base:

6" x 10 1/2"

Cut:

Eleven 16" spokes out of 1/2" Flat reed
Seven 20" spokes out of 1/2" Flat reed

Mark spokes on rough side on center. Lay out seven 20" spokes horizontally spanning 6", aligning the center marks.

Over-under weave the 16" spokes vertically starting at the center marks of the horizontal spokes, weaving under the center spoke.

True base to 6 x 10 1/2" and twine one row around base. Upset stakes.

Rows 1-5:

1/4" Flat plain

Rows 6-8:

1/4" Flat dyed

Rows 9-11:

1/4" Flat plain

Cut and tuck spokes and form rim with 1/2" Flat inside and out. Line with Seagrass and lash with 1/4" Flat.

Rim:

Form rim with 1/2" Flat/Oval outside, seagrass, 1/2" Flat inner rim, and 1/4" Flat/Oval lashing.

Variation: Prepare base and twine as above.

Rows 1-5:

1/4" Flat/Oval

Rows 6-8:

Twine 3 rows of #3 Round reed paired with #1 or #2 Seagrass

Rows 9-11:

1/4" Flat/Oval

Candle Holder Basket Pattern

Materials:

• 1 candle 2 3/4" x 2 3/4"
• 5/8" Flat (spokes and one weaver)
• 1/4" Flat (weavers, both plain and color, and split as lashing)
• 1/2" Flat (rim)
• Narrow Seagrass
• #2 Round reed (twining)

Hint:

Weave sides straight up. Pack well and keep spokes straight. Check candle fit periodically. Glass rim should sit above basket rim for safetly.

Base:

2 3/4" x 2 3/4"

Cut:

Six 11 3/4" spokes out of 5/8" Flat reed

Mark all spokes in the center on the rough side. Lay out three spokes horizontally, centers lined up, spanning 2 3/4". Over-under weave one spoke vertically through the center. True base to 2 3/4" x 2 3/4". Twine once around with #2 round reed. Upset stakes.

Over-under weave sides with a two-spoke overlap. Do not overlap around corners.

Rows 1-3:

1/4" Flat plain

Row 4:

1/4" Flat dyed

Row 5:

5/8" Flat plain

Row 6:

1/4" Flat dyed

Rows 7-9:

1/4" Flat plain

Check candle fit - there should be room to tuck the spokes and lash rim in place. Cut and tuck.

Rim:

Using 1/2" Flat for your inner rim and outer rim, add narrow seagrass as a filler and lash in place with a length of 1/4" Flat reed that has been cut in half lengthwise (forming a 1/8" lasher).

4th of July Hanging Basket Pattern

Materials:

12” x 19” D handle - sanded well
3/8” flat/flat reed - spokes
1/4” flat/oval reed - weavers (dyed red)
1/4” flat/oval reed - weavers (dyed blue)
1/4” flat/oval reed - weavers (natural)
#2 round reed - twine base
1/2” flat/oval - outer rim
1/2" flat/flat - inner rim
11/64” flat/oval - lashing
seagrass or #5 round reed - rim filler

Cut:

17- 27” x 3/8” flat spokes

Mark all spokes at the center on the rough side. Mark the center of the handle.

Lay out seventeen 27” spokes horizontally aligning centers. Weave in the handle vertically beginning under. The center horizontal spokes goes over the handle.

True the base to (handle width approx. 1 1/8”) x 12”.

Twine once around the base with #2 round reed. Upsett spokes.

Rows 1-3: Over-under weave a row of red 1/4” flat/oval with the weaver outside of the handle. Weave next two rows alternating the first row. These are individual rows ending with a four spoke overlap.

Rows 4-6: Over-under weave 3 rows natural 1/4" flat/oval.
Rows 7-9: 3 rows red 1/4" flat/oval.
Rows 10-12: 3 rows natural 1/4" flat/oval
Rows 13-15: 3 rows red 1/4" flat/oval
Rows 16-18: 3 rows natural 1/4" flat/oval
Row 19: Beginning behind the 9th spoke from the left - weave 1/4" red to the right - around teh basket until the top of the second spoke on the left front. Weave a piece of 1/4" flat/oval navy beginning behind the first spoke on the left, right until it ends tucked between red weaver and tenth spoke from the left.
Row 20: Beginning behind the 8th spoke weave 1/4" red flat/oval right - around the basket and end on top of the first spoke to teh left on the front. Tuck a 1/4" f/o blue weaver between the handle and red weaver and weave to the right overlapping the red weaver and trimming eighth and ninth spokes from the left so that the blue rows appear the same width.

Row 21: repeat row 19
Row 22: repat row 20 - using natural instead of red 1/4" flat/oval
Row 23: repeat row 19 - using natural instead of red 1/4" flat/oval
Row 24: repeat row 20 - using natural instead of red 1/4" flat/oval"
Rows 25-39: follow pattern established until you have a field of blue flanked by seven stripes, beginning and ending in red. There should be 13 stripes in all on the flag.
Row 40: weave one row 1/4" flat/oval natural.

Cut and tuck spokes.

Rim: Form a rim with 1/2” flat/oval outer rim, 1/2” flat inner rim and #2 seagrass as rim filler. Lash with 1/4” flat/oval. “x” the lashing over the handles.

I stained my basket with ground walnut hull stain. After drying I sprayed on a coat of Krylon Acrylic clear to the basket body and smoothly sanded the handle. Then I painted 13 stars, centering the 7th or middle star on the top center of the handle, and spacing the others evenly down the sides. You could stencil then or wrap the handle, or leave it plain if you like.

Two Side Basket Pattern

Materials:
1/2" Flat Reed - spokes, rims and weavers
1/4" Flat Reed - weavers, lashing
3/8" Flat Reed
#2 Seagrass - rim filler
#2 Round Reed - twining
NS4 Square 10"-11" handle

Base: 4.5" x 9" overall, 4.5" x 4.5" separately

Cut: 20 - 22.5" x 1/2" Flat Reed spokes
8 - 11" x 1/2" Flat Reed spokes

Mark the 22.5" spokes in the center on the rough side. Mark the 11" filler spokes on the smooth side in the centers.

Weave two separate bases 4.5" x 4.5" as follows:

Lay out five 22.5" spokes rough side up horizontally aligning centers. Space about 1/2" apart. Weave one 22.5" vertically through the centers beginning under.

Weave one 11" filler spoke vertically on each side of the center spoke, smooth side up. Vertical spokes should be packed tightly together. Weave one 22.5" spoke vertically on each side of the filler spokes, followed by two more fillers and ending with two 22.5" spokes. True base to measure 4.5" x 4.5". Mark inside of one of the bases with a "#1".

Begin second base the same as the first. Lay out 5 spokes horizontally, rough side up, aligning centers. Weave a 22.5" spoke through the centers beginning over.

Weave filler spokes rough side up, vertically, one on each side of center vertical spoke. Pack vertical spokes tightly together. Continue to weave spokes and filler spokes alternately. True base to 4.5" x 4.5". Mark the inside of the second base with a "#2".

Base #1: Fold filler spokes to the outside and tuck under the center spoke.

Base #2: Fold filler spokes to the inside and tuck under the center spoke.

Upsett the spokes on one filler-end side of each basket. Clip the upsett spokes of basket #1 to those of #2. Twine the base of the joined basket around the outer perimeter. Upsett rest of stakes.

Rows 1-12: Weave with 3/8" flat reed, one row at a time on each basket. The pairs of spokes on the joined side of the basket will be treated as one. You must have woven the bases as directed for the over/under weave of the sides to line up properly to weave the sides together as one. The separating wall of the basket is woven with a double thickness this way. Begin and end rows on sides other than the joining wall. End with a four spoke overlap.

Row 13: Weave one row 1/4" flat reed in the same manner as previous rows.

Cut and tuck each basket as one. Do not cut the pairs of spokes as one spoke. When you are doing the connecting wall, cut and tuck on ly the spokes to the basket you are working on. Leave the other set of spokes standing until you cut and tuck that basket.

Insert NS4SQ handle into center handle spoke. Using 1/2" Flat Reed, form your inner and outer rims. There will be two inner rims and one outer. Starting on one side of the inserted handle, lay the seagrass in between the rims, going once around each basket and ending on the other side of the handle. This will cause a double row of seagrass on the connecting wall of the basket. Lash with 1/4" flat reed, making an x over the handle spokes.

Small Fruit Basket with Handle Pattern

Materials:

4” x 6.5” D handle - sanded well
3/8” flat/flat reed - spokes & inner rim
1/4” flat/flat reed - weavers
#2 round reed - twine base
#3 round reed - weavers
3/8” flat/oval - outer rim
11/64” flat/oval - lashing
seagrass or #5 round reed - rim filler

Cut:
5 - 18” x 3/8” flat spokes
8 - 16” x 3/8” flat spokes

Mark all spokes at the center on the rough side. Mark the center of the handle.

Lay out the five 18” spokes horizontally aligning centers. Weave in the handle vertically beginning under. The center horizontal spokes goes over the handle. Weave in the 16” spokes alternating the weave. There will be four spokes woven vertically on each side of the handle.

True the base to 4” x 6”.

Twine once around the base with #2 round reed. Upsett spokes.

Rows 1-2: Over-under weave a row of 1/4” flat with the weaver outside of the handle. Weave another row alternating the first row. These are individual rows ending with a four spoke overlap.

Rows 3-5: Take a long piece of #3 round. Alternate the weave on row 2. Continue weaving for two more rows. Do not end weaver. These will not alternate with each other, but will lie right on top of each other.

Rows 6-8: Pass behind the first spoke and the one to the right, and weave a row alternating row 5. Continue weaving for two more rows. Again these will fall right on top of each other.

Rows 9-11: repeat rows 6-8. Do not end weaver.

Rows 12-14: repeat rows 6-8. When you complete these rows, tuck weaver.

Rows 15-17: Weave three 1/4” flat rows, alternating the weave. These are individual rows and have a four spoke overlap. Cut & tuck.

Rim: Form a rim with 3/8” flat/oval outer rim, 3/8” flat inner rim and #2 seagrass or #5 round reed as rim filler. Lash with 11/64” flat/oval. “x” the lashing over the handles.

Divided Basket Pattern

Materials:
1/2" flat reed - spokes, weavers, inner rim
3/8" flat reed - filler spokes
#2 or #3 seagrass - rim filler
#00 seagrass - side decoration, approx.10'
1/4" flat reed - top row weaving
1/2" flat dyed reed - one row approx. 48"
#2 round reed - twine base
1/2" flat/oval - outer rim
1/4" flat/oval - lashing rim
1 - NS4SQ oak handle
2 - wooden dividers - 10 1/8" x 3 15/16" x 1/4"

Cut

22 - 26" x 1/2" flat reed spokes
8 - 15" x 3/8" flat reed filler spokes
2 - 15" x 1/2" flat reed filler spokes

Base measures 10 1/4" x 10 1/4" after twining
You will probably need to sand down and trim your handle. The height to the notch should be 4". The notch will only need to stick out about 1/8".

Mark centers of 26" spokes on the rough side. Mark the centers of 15" spokes on the smooth side.

Lay out eleven 26" spokes horizontally. Spread spokes out enough to form a 10" deep base. Weave a 26" vertical spoke through the center beginning under, so that the vertical spoke goes OVER the center horizontal spoke. The center vertical spoke is the handle spoke.

Weave a 15" x 1/2" filler spoke, smooth side up, on each side of the center vertical spoke. Pack filler spokes snugly against the center vertical spoke. Alternate 26" x 1/2" spokes, rough side up, with 15" x 3/8" filler spokes, smooth side up, to complete base. True base to 10" x 10".

Flip base over. Split and tuck filler spokes, forming "V"s along horizontal edge of base. TURN BASE BACK OVER. Twine once around base. Upsett spokes.

Weave
1 row - 1/2" flat going outside handle spoke. Keep corners squared and sides upright.
2 rows - 1/2" flat

Insert handle to base of basket inside center vertical spoke.

3 rows - 1/2" flat forming basket to fit snugly against dividers. (Hint - Keep corners square and spokes upright.)
1 row - dyed 1/2" flat. Raise above previous row enough to thread seagrass between the rows. Double length of seagrass long enough to go around the basket plus 6". Begin lacing from the inside of basket left of the handle spoke. Bring ends of seagrass to the outside of basket above and below dyed row until center of seagrass is snug against inside edge of handle. Bring upper strand across handle spoke on the outside of the basket and insert in lower right opening. Place lower outside strand over first strand forming "X" and insert in upper right opening. Continue around. There should be "X"s outside the basket, over the colored row, and stitches above and below the dyed row on the inside of basket. End by pulling the two strands through the beginning loop on the basket inside and clipping. Adjust seagrass and dyed row so that is evenly packed against lower rows of weaving.

1 row - 1/2" flat reed
1 row - 1/4" flat reed (top row of weaving)
rim - 1/2" flat/oval reed (outer rim)
1/2" flat inner rim
#2 or #3 seagrass filler
1/4" flat/oval lashing (X handle)

If sides of basket stand away from divider, block sides or tie rims in correct position to dry. Be certain to sand handle and dividers smoothly.

Stain and coat divider with a moisture proof sealant to prevent warping. A urethane-tung oil mix would be good.

Swing Basket Pattern

Swing Basket Pattern

Materials:
5/8" flat - spokes & fillers
1/2" flat - weavers, inside rim
1/4" flat/oval - color weavers
1/4" flat/oval - top row & lashing
1/2" flat/oval - outer rim
#2 seagrass
#2 round reed - twine base
10" x 9 1/2" D handle (or taller)
1" x 4" x 1/8" wood scrap, cording (swing)

Cut:
4 - 24" x 5/8" flat - spokes
4 - 18" x 5/8" flat - filler spokes
9 - 21" x 5/8" flat - spokes

Mark center of handle and 21" & 24" spokes on rough side. Mark center of 18" spokes on smooth side.

Lay out 9 21" spokes rough side up horizontally aligning centers. Weave in handle vertically beginning under top spoke. Weave 18" filler, smooth side up vertically on each side of handle. Alternate with 24" spokes, rough side up, repeat, until all spokes are woven into base. Pack base to 6 1/2" vertical X 10" horizontal. There may be a small space between handle and filler spokes. The rest should pack tightly. Turn base over.

Tuck filler spokes into base under 3rd spoke. Turn base back over. Twine once around. Upsett spokes.

Row 1-3: 1/2" flat (weave first row outside handle spoke)
Row 4-12: 1/4" flat/oval color
Row 13: 1/4" flat/oval plain

Straighten spokes and pack all rows beginning at bottom. Cut and tuck.

Rim: Form rim using 1/2" flat inner rim and 1/2" flat/oval outer rim.
Line with seagrass and lash with 1/4" flat/oval. "X" handles.
Swing: Drill handle with 1/8" bit, 1 1/2" each side of center. Drill seat holes the same width apart as the handle holes. (1/2" in from each end of seat) Thread beads onto "rope" to fill area between holes on handle. (3") Pull ends of cord through handle holes. Adjust cord to length needed. Feed through seat holes. Try the doll in the swing for height. Knot ends. Trim.

This would be perfect for teddy bear collectors, you could use any size D handle. For a taller doll, use 10" x 12" D or 10" x 14" D.